0.4mm nozzles just became obsolete
Are you still using a 0.4mm nozzle? You probably shouldn’t be!
Thanks to Fiberpunk for sponsoring this video! Check them out at https://fiber-punk.com/
Read the article to this video here: https://toms3d.org/2022/07/28/arachne-in-prusaslicer-0-4mm-nozzles-just-became-obsolete/
PrusaSlicer 2.5.0 Alpha https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer/releases
Models shown
Salty McCreedy https://www.printables.com/model/110688-salty-mccreedy
3D Benchy https://www.printables.com/model/3161-3d-benchy
Sony Microscope lens adapter https://www.printables.com/model/143754
Prusa SL1 Test Object https://www.printables.com/model/5375-original-prusa-sl1-test-object
Relevant products
Genuine E3D Nozzles & Obxidian http://go.toms3d.org/E3Dnoz
… on Amazon http://go.toms3d.org/GenuineE3Dnoz
Genuine Slice Engineering Nozzles http://go.toms3d.org/SliceNoz
Filament is Prusament Galaxy Black PLA http://go.toms3d.org/Prusament
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I've been using a 0.6mm one for years because I mostly print larger mechanical parts that also benefit from the higher strenght from the larger extrusion diameter. but will definetly give arachne a try
Can you tell…
No.
But the footage is really bad to the point where I suspect it was done on purpose.
OK I do have a possible drawback on the 0.6 nozzle. Some of my profiles disappeared when I selected 0.6 nozzle size. This is because Cura 5.1 does not sort adaptive layers with a 0.6 nozzle. This was a setting suggested to me for printing silk filament so I am not an expert in its effects. Perhaps someone can enlighten us on this.
I fail to see how a significant gain in print resolution with absolutely no increase in print time makes a 0.4 nozzle obsolete but okay…
I tried to 6 and didn't like it. I got too much oozing from pressure build-up . No matter what the retraction settings settings or speed…
Nope. Not interested in speed. More interested in eliminating layer lines.
The thumbnail is clever, throwing out the .4 nozzle like how andy threw out woody.
I went with a Vanadium 0.5 mm for my mosquito hotend, less clogs and let's me print fast at .4 layer height or at the same as a 0 4. I use to print at 0.6 a lot, but that was for low detail prints. Though I guess 0.6 could work now, but 0.5 works great.
Amazing video, I was thinking the same thing when testing this option! Now, to order a 0.6 obXidian Revo… aaand… 😤
Stefan from cnc kitchen said that you csn print and output wider lines with your nozzle without any significant drop in throughput. So I would still use 0.4 but telling the slicer that it's 0.6 or 0.8 and use arachne
Nice Toy Story reference Thumbnail 😀
Iam using kind all of diameters: 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, 1.0. Worst are 0.2 and 1.0 IMHO.
I love your shirt 😛
Possibly the first time I've rewound to check a sponsor segment that I had started skipping.
Do SD card ports behave like USB i.e. serialised?
Because wasn't that the issue with trying to run G Code from a pi through the USB… that it couldn't give on-demand instructions fast enough via a single/linear/serial data stream with low bit rate relative to the movement of the nozzle… so that instructions come late when many direction changes etc are happening.
Does Fiberpunk address/solve that issue or is that out of its scope?
.4 with the new algorithm sounds good to me.
I have noticed no difference in times with 5.1 vs 4.12. Feel like I'm missing something.
I don't think 0.4 is obsolete. With current extruders 0.4 will remain the most popular choice.
So what I'm hearing is that Arachne is awesome… and I should use it with a 0.4mm nozzle? This whole video seems to rest upon the idea that the primary aim is faster speeds. For a lot of users, the goal is higher detail. If Arachne can make 0.4 models look even better than THAT'S the massive selling point, at least for me.
lol we can also use the .4 nozle to print in .6mm layer wide using this arachnea sftware boost..
in fact uve tried to vasemode up to 1.2m layer wide with my .4 nozzle, an saw great improvement to layer adeshion, and now my vasemode thing are strong enough to be usefull… i guess i will let my nozzle wear a litle more XD im at 4yr printing with the stock nozzle XD
I've been using 0.6mm nozzles for a few months now. Much faster print time with really detailed results still. Would definitely recommend.
I find it very annoying when you compare two prints using blurry focus with your camera. This is not the place to be artsy
What material…:? I found that ABS starts to leak out at 0.6 and it is much more stringy than on 0.4
I just tell the slicer I am using a 0.6mm nozzle and then use Arachne. But it's actually just a 0.4mm nozzle. Works amazingly, I get all the increased fine detail of the 0.4, but with all the speed improvements of using a 0.6
Give it a go!
Fantastic thumbnail, nice work hahaha!
4:16 you can totally tell the two on the right are 0.6 sorry but a 0.6 will never have as nice layer lines as a 0.4 especially on the top
Goddamnit!!!
SLIC3R is not pronounced "Slick-Three-Are" – It was just a fancy way to write SLICER, where the E was mirrored so it looked like the number 3. It was supposed to make the name look cool, but nobody understood it 😀 😀 😀
This is a great comparison and I'm excited to try out my 0.6 nozzle with the new slicer. In the video though it can be hard to see the differences when the 0.4/0.6 prints aren't always labeled, and the points of comparison aren't always in focus
Hi Thomas! This video definitely belongs in the "Best 3D Printer Tips Ever" drawer. I only print functional parts and switching to a 0.6 mm nozzle has been a blessing. Without your suggestion and explanations, I would never have thought of it, so thank you very much for that!
Just tried out a .6 nozzle but encountered issues with respect to temperature while printing Asa ln 245°C. Even with a speed of 50mm/s and fan turned on at 50% and even 100% ( using the Blokhead fan shroud) an a 10 second minimal layer time, layers still tend to be too hot and hot soft, thus they get squeezed around and shapes, for example, overhangs or cylinders with 3mm diameter, are getting deformed. I am using an enclosure and a bed temp of 90°C. Any ideas?
I just use a 1mm nozzle because I am an impatient caveman who cares little for detail work.
hey man, after seeing this vid, went out and bought a 0.6mm nozzle and after a bit more tweaking (my retraction had issues) i think your advice is great. for my uses, the larger nozzle is ideal and saves me HELLA time. good stuff!
This entire video really feels like a wasted opportunity because you decided not to isolate your variables. It would have been much more informative and useful to have a comparison between .4mm classic, .4mm arachne, .6mm classic and .6mm arachne separately. It seems likely that .6mm is strictly a quality downgrade from .4mm with the same algorithm while increasing print speed and arachne is strictly a quality and possibly print speed upgrade over classic, but we don't actually know now.
shyt when did they come out with a 0.4? I though the standard sizes were .5 and 1.1? BTW I suggest every one make their own nozzle atleast once, The North90 is a open source end based on mig tips from harbor freight. When I made mine I used Marine Brass Rod from McMasters Carr, its thermal transfer is out of this world.
i appreciate the subtitles
so. 0.4 with arachne. got it. keeping my .4, thanks
As a .6 nozzle user, I'd really like to believe it's true, but .4 is pretty much better. I agree that .6 got a lot better and might be as good as .4 used to be, but arachne made .4 better too. You'd be better using .4 with .6 wall.
I've been making 2 tone charms with my crew and I've have to always tell my artists to draw with thick lines other wise the outlines won't be able to print
It's crazy how thin lines we can print now
I wonder how to use it on Cura 🤔
After watching the video i got 0.6 nozzle but the oozing is crazy. At retraction, it leaves big blogs of plastic. This is with the default profile in prusaslicer. Anybody got good profile for ender 3 v2? I tried tunning temp , retraction length and speed but with no success. I got original creality nozzle btw
Is that a LGX Ace Magnum+ on the table? What printer are you putting that on? Are you making a video about it?
tks man!
Im having stringing issues using .6mm. did you make any notable changes to temp or retraction?
Biqu is all sold out of 0.6 mm for their H2, folks must be onto this
Bro, Tom… whats been going on bud… you've aged. I hope the monomer vapor hasn't gotten to you.